16mm To Minox Splitter

There was a problem with the previous 16mm to Minox splitter in that there was no "stop" to keep the cutting head from placing pressure on the film and causing scratches. In this model, the brass stop pin extends through the head and fits into the slots on either side of the cutter base. This keeps the cutting head slightly above the base and allows the film to slip through the film channel without top-to-bottom pressure. I added velvet to both the head and the channel to help keep the film free from scratches caused by the unprotected plastic in the cutter.


CONSTRUCTION

For construction, I used 0.5 inch thick plexiglass (Lucite) for the base and cutting head. For the sides of the slitter, I used plexiglass (Lucite), 0.120 inches thick. I adjusted the slots in the sides of the base by filing the slots to the correct depth to allow the blade to just barely touch the inside bottom surface of the base.

THE CUTTING HEAD

I used the same construction for the blade holder as in the previous slitter, except for the material, I used 0.5 inch thick plexiglass. I drilled the hole using a 0.250 inch brad point bit and used epoxy to hold the blade in position. I adjusted the blade position as the epoxy was setting. The hinge pin is removable to allow easier cleaning of the slitter between sessions.

USING THE SLITTER

I cut the film from the spool in total darkness, allowing about 1 inch more film than the actual length required for the cassette load. For measurement, I have cut small notches in the front edge of the trim strip on the tabletop. I insert the film from the hinge pin end of the splitter and push it forward until the film clears the end of the cutter by about 1 inch. I then close the splitter and pull the film through in a smooth, even motion.